Saturday, September 3, 2011

Interior / Trunk - 2


Back into the trunk and interior today. Getting ready to move the car to a new location and wanted to button some things up beforehand. Would like to get the gas tank installed so hence the focus on the trunk. Got the trunk speckle-painted last weekend and wanted to touch up the inner wheel wells. It looked like someone threw sand on them before they sealed them with primer during the first restoration. Got the palm sander out and hit what I could - and what I couldn't - got hand sanded. Few hours later, a little primer and she's not looking too bad. Probably re-sand to fill the small stuff and hit it again. Found a can of Plasti-Kote on-line called Ford Candy Apple Red. If the cap color is any indication, it looks close to what I have. For the trunk area it will be good enough.



BEFORE
AFTER
 While the primer was drying, I headed back into the interior. I've been piddling around with the left quarter window for too long. A pile of rust, bent regulators, warped tracks and worn-out bushings. Finally getting to the end of it though. Found a good used regulator on-line and was able to hammer the tracks back into their proper shapes. Sand blasted and powder coated the inner regulator mounting plate this past week. Just needed to POR-15 the inner quarter panel patches and then start into reassembly.

LEFT QUARTER WINDOW
Once I got the POR-15 brushed on, I moved a bit forward and got the front carpet reinstalled over the fresh Dynamat. Threw on the shifter bezel and handle and called it a day. Good progress!

FRONT CARPET REINSTALLED














Sunday, August 28, 2011

Parts Identification Help

As I've mentioned, my car came to me in cardboard boxes and coffee cans. With no documentation of the disassembly, I've combed NPD catalogs, shop manuals and slid under cars at car shows trying to identify parts that I couldn't find a home for. I'm finally down to a handful of parts that are still looking for a place to live. I'm posting them here in the hope someone might know what they are and where they go. As a warning, it is quite possible some of these aren't Mustang parts as we gathered up what we could find in the original restorer's garage. If it was on the floor, it went in a can. I've id'ed some of these parts since this photo. I've listed those below along with some additional descriptions. All help appreciated!





1 - front bumper-to-fender brackets
2 - original washer/thin sheet metal nuts that retain the brake drums
3 - front fender shims
4 - no idea - it's made of pot metal - about 1/8" thick
5 - no idea - thin sheet metal nut
6 - deck lid trim molding clips
7 - no idea - sheet metal hat with swagged stud - sheet metal nut
8 - no idea - hard plastic - look like some sort of blade seal
9 - these should be easy as there are 9 of them but I've yet to figure out where they go. Slight gold plating - 1/4-20 - these feel like seat bolts, heater box bolts or something in the taillight area. But I don't seem to be missing any fasteners in those areas. Five of them are 1 1/2" long, three are 2" long.

un-numbered photo - rear shock bushings (thanks to JoyRider for the id!!!) these came in a plastic bag attached to the rear seat springs.

Tuesday, August 23, 2011

Interior / Trunk

After missing a few weekends due to bike racing, I got back to the car Saturday for a couple hours. Finished up the Dynamat installation. There are still lots of places it could be installed but decided enough was enough. I don't plan one of those head-banging bass systems so there's no need to completely sound-proof the car - esp with it being a convertible.











With the Dynamat wrapped up, I headed back to the trunk area. I've been wanting to get the gas tank back in but was waiting until I speckle-painted the trunk area. Bought some white/gray speckle paint from Eastwood that I've used before on my 67. I like the looks of it and it goes a long way in hiding the myriad of small  bumps/dents that are inevitably found in a 40 year old car trunk. After 2 coats of paint, I let it dry overnight and hit it with 3 coats of Diamond Clear Satin on Sunday.






All that's left before dropping in the tank is touching up the body paint on the inner wheel wells and rear bulkhead. Found some Ford Candy Apple Red by Plasti-Kote on the internet tonight and ordered a can. A couple squirts and I should be nearly finished in the trunk. Just a few stainless steel fasteners here and there and running the new taillight harness.

Susie dropped off the rear seats at the upholstery shop last Thurs. I had previously sand blasted and painted the seat frames so they have been ready for upholstery for awhile now. Just needed to get them to the shop. Front seats are already done. Now that the Dynamat is completed, I can get the carpet installed, followed in short order by the front and rear seats. Someplace to sit again in the car other than the floor!!!!!







Sunday, July 17, 2011

Things That Date the Car

I'm a design engineer by trade and find it tough not to change things on the car. Yet one of the most interesting aspect of our old Mustangs is how well the shape has aged.  You still find these cars showing up in movies and commercials. Good design never goes out of style.

However, there are a few styling cues on the cars that bother me and I've been gradually working on alternatives to update the look of our car a bit. The items that bother me the most:

1. dash - those big old clunky gauge pods will have to go.
2. shock tower supports - can't verbalize it other than I despise them.
3. 1/4 reflectors - they scream 1968.
4. door handles - also have 1968 written all over them.

The dash I haven't given much thought to other than just replacing it with a flat aluminum panel with some race-style Autometer gauges. Easiest solution to door handles seems to be just shave them. 1/4 reflectors I have a design for that I hope to get milled soon out of billet. Lastly, the shock braces, which I hated the most, I've fixed - at least in my mind I've fixed :)

I looked at alternatives for these. There are a few heim-jointed tube affairs which really stiffen things up but look totally out of place under the hood of a street car. After a few iterations I settled on keeping the original braces and adding a 1/4" thick aluminum insert. I waterjetted them, sanded them to get a brushed effect then sealed with satin powder coat. I really like them now and they add a nice, subtle look to the engine compartment. Ended up designing a matching battery hold-down to finish it off. Here's a shot of one of the braces.



So it's on to the 1/4 reflectors now. No wonder it has taken 20 years to get this car up and running again. I can't leave well enough alone!!!   :)

UPDATE - I've found some custom door handles at Rings Brothers:

http://www.ringbrothers.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&Product_ID=377

Still not exactly what I want but interesting. They also have stainless steel door strikers that I must have

Monday, June 20, 2011

Dynamat Going In - Damn you Foose!!!

This is what I get for watching too much OverHaul'in. Chip Foose finally brainwashed me into thinking I need Dynamat. But after thinking it over, I figured a 60's convertible that we plan on taking across Route 66 someday, could probably use additional sound deadening and heat protection. So this weekend, I removed the perfectly good carpet that I had already taken off my lengthy to-do list, to install 9 sheets of Dynamat I recently purchased over the Net. It was initially a bit awkward to install but after a sheet or two, I got the hang of it and ripped through the rest of it in two afternoon sessions. Came up a little short and decided to order a couple sheets to finish the floor and then a couple more after that to do the doors and quarters. The best advice I can give is to break it up into smaller sections. Large sections are difficult to work and end up causing more trouble than they are worth.   Some thin sheets of cardboard are good for making templates of odd-shaped areas - like the curved sections of the foot wells in the rear seat area.
While waiting for the next sheets to arrive, I think I'm heading to the trunk area to see if I can finally get that new gas tank installed and out from under my feet. 


Saturday, June 18, 2011

351W Crate Motor

I had initially planned on just freshening up the tired 302 that came original with the car. But after doing some research, it seemed a crate motor would prove more cost effective and time efficient. I narrowed my choices down to an aluminum-headed 302 or a cast iron 351W. Being a convertible, I decided a high-rev'ing small block wasn't needed and opted for the standard 351W instead. Came complete with everything except a carburetor. Aluminum 4-barrel intake, electronic distributor, plugs, wires - even a oil filter - all for just $2690! Just can't beat that price for a factory-built motor that will do 100K miles with no problems. 
I ended up swapping out the truck-specific oil pan for an early Mustang version. Added a Holley 4-barrel, JBA headers, March flat belt drive system and aluminum water pump. And the result is shown below. Can't wait for the day when she's running.

Emerging after a 15 Year Hibernation!